As previously mention in the blog " Lets Talk Shit" today I wanted to talk about outhouses, where and how to build them as well as how to keep them clean and sanitary! There are basically two types of outhouses; the vault pit and the pit. Both of these types of outhouses should be what is called "ventilated" which basically means there's a vent pipe from either the vault or the pit so the smells and methane gas can escape and give you a fresh smelling outhouse. Below we will discuss each type and give some plans or links to plans that are easy to follow.
The Ventilated Pit: A ventilated pit outhouse, also known as a ventilated pit latrine, is a type of toilet that collects human waste in a hole in the ground. Urine and feces enter the pit through a drop hole in the floor, which might be connected to a toilet seat or squatting pan for user comfort. Ventilated Pit outhouses can be built to function without water (dry toilet) or they can have a water seal (pour-flush pit latrine). When properly built and maintained, ventilated pit outhouses can decrease the spread of disease by reducing the amount of human feces in the environment from open defecation. This decreases the transfer of pathogens between feces and food by flies.
Ventilated Pit outhouses are a simple, low-cost alternative to a flush toilet, and they can be a good option for people who live in rural areas or who do not have access to a sewer system.
Here are some of the advantages of using a ventilated pit outhouse:
They are inexpensive to build and maintain.
They are a good option for people who live in rural areas or who do not have access to a sewer system.
They are relatively easy to build and maintain.
They can be used in areas with limited water resources.
Here are some of the tips for building and maintaining a ventilated pit outhouse:
Choose a level site that is at least 10 feet from any water source.
Dig a hole that is at least 3 feet deep and 2 feet wide.
Line the hole with a layer of sand or gravel.
Place a toilet seat or squatting pan over the hole.
Cover the hole with a lid to keep out flies and other pests.
Empty the pit when it is full.
Dispose of the waste properly.
Repair any damage to the latrine or structure.
Keep the area around the latrine clean and free of debris.
If you live in an area with a high water table, you may need to dig the hole deeper or line it with concrete to prevent the waste from seeping into the groundwater.
f you are concerned about the smell, you can add a layer of charcoal or sawdust to the bottom of the hole.
You must also add a ventilation pipe to the latrine to help reduce the smell.
If you have a lot of visitors, you may need to build a larger latrine.
You can also add a handwashing station to the latrine to help prevent the spread of disease.
The principle of the ventilated pit is that a continuous flow of air comes in through the superstructure and enters the pit through the hole. This cold air will go down into the pit displacing (pushing up) the hot smelly air upward through the vent pipe. The other advantage of the vent is controlling flies. Dry pit latrines potentially serve as breeding places for flies. Newly-emerging adult flies will try to escape through the vent pipe because the pipe allows sunlight to enter into the pit and flies are photopositive (meaning they move towards light) by nature. A mesh screen tied at the top of the vent pipe will prevent flies from escaping to the outside of the latrine.
Constructing a VIP latrine:
The latrine should be at least 10 feet from your home and 100 feet from wells or creeks. Ideally, the latrine should be off your property line.
Ideally, your latrine is about 4 feet deep. Two feet deep is sufficient, though. The hole should be about 2 foot wide.
If you see water while digging, stop. It means you’ve reached the water table.
After going #2, cover the waste with a bit of dirt or mulch.
When not in use, place a heavy-duty piece of cardboard or wood board over the hole. This will keep pests out.
When the latrine is full to the 1-foot line, it is full and should be emptied or covered.
Mark the location of the full latrine.
Never dispose of plastic bags in the latrine. Only special compostable bags designated for latrines can go in.
Dig a new latrine as necessary.
The vent pipe should have an internal diameter of 110–150 mm and reach more than 300 mm above the highest point of the superstructure. The vent works better in windy areas but where there is not much wind its effectiveness can be improved by painting the pipe black. This makes the vent pipe warmer and the heat difference between the pit (cool) and the vent (warm) creates an updraft that pulls the air and odors up and out of the pit. To test the efficacy of the ventilation, a small, smoky fire can be lit in the pit; the smoke should be pulled up and out of the vent pipe and not remain in the pit or the superstructure. The mesh size of the fly screen must be large enough to prevent clogging with dust and allow air to circulate freely. Aluminum screens with a holesize of 1.2–1.5 mm have proved to be the most effective.
Maintenance of VIP latrines: The maintenance requirements are similar to simple latrines. Keep the area clean and free of debris. You a soap and water or natural products to clean your outhouse. Never put any bleach or other chemicals into your latrine. We are relying on natural bacteria to break down the waste and using bleach, peroxide or other disinfectants will kill those necessary bacteria that will break down waste. In addition, dead flies, spider webs, dust and debris should be removed from the ventilation screen to ensure a good flow of air.
The Vault: A vault outhouse, also known as a vault toilet, is a type of toilet that does not use water. It is a non-flush toilet that collects waste in an underground tank or vault. Vault toilets are commonly found in remote areas where there is no access to a sewer system. They are also used in some campgrounds and other recreational areas.
Vault toilets are typically made of concrete or steel and are enclosed in a small building. The building has a toilet seat and a lid, and a vent pipe that goes through the roof. The waste is deposited into the underground tank or vault, which is typically made of concrete or steel. The tank or vault is emptied periodically by a waste disposal company.
Vault toilets are a more sanitary option than pit toilets, which are another type of non-flush toilet. Pit toilets do not have an underground tank or vault, so the waste is deposited directly into the ground. This can lead to the spread of disease, especially in areas with poor sanitation.
Vault toilets are a more environmentally friendly option than flush toilets. Flush toilets use a lot of water, which can be a problem in areas with limited water resources. Vault toilets do not use any water, so they are a more sustainable option.
Here are some tips for using a vault toilet:
Do not flush toilet paper down the toilet. Toilet paper should be disposed of in the trash can next to the toilet.
Do not put any other materials down the toilet, such as diapers, feminine hygiene products, or food waste.
Be sure to close the lid of the toilet after use.
Constructing a Vault Outhouse:
Dig the pit. The pit should be about 4′ deep and 2′ long.
Line the sides of the pit with concrete blocks, making sure they’re level and straight.
Build a floor and walls from concrete blocks on top of this foundation layer. The floor should be level and slightly larger than your toilet seat to allow for expansion during freezing temperatures in winter months (which will crack your floor if it is not built correctly).
The walls should extend above ground level so that water runs off them rather than into them; this will prevent rot from occurring inside the vault over time, which could lead to structural problems later on down the line if left unchecked.
It’s also important that these walls are at least 18″ high so that children cannot access them without being able to see through any windows first
Use a level to make sure that the blocks are straight. If they are not, it is easy to fix them before they dry.
Use cement mortar to fill in around each block with trowel, spreading evenly over the unpainted surface of the block and filling in any spaces between it and its neighbors. Once this layer has dried completely (it will take about 24 hours), repeat with another layer of concrete blocks and mortar until all four sides have been fully constructed; this will take anywhere from 6-10 hours depending on your speed and how much time you spend leveling out any uneven surfaces before pouring on more concrete.
Next, you’ll want to build the walls. Concrete blocks are the best way to go because they’re durable and easy to work with. You can use pre-cut concrete blocks or make your own using drywall saws. The walls should be at least 4 inches thick and 2 feet high, but if you’d like a taller vault toilet (or one that looks more like an actual bathroom), feel free to increase these measurements accordingly!
To make sure your vault toilet is easy to clean, consider building it in such a way that there’s no gap between its top surface and that of its surrounding frame:
The floor should be made of concrete blocks. This is a sturdy material that can support the weight of a large person, or even several people at once. You don’t want your vault toilet to collapse under pressure!
The concrete blocks are laid out on the ground and then filled with sand, which acts as both a cushion and an insulator. This allows heat from inside the vault toilet to escape without damaging the flooring materials beneath them (and vice versa). If you don’t have access to sand, try using gravel instead—it will still do the job perfectly well!
The next step is to add a base of gravel. This will help to provide proper drainage, and it also prevents seepage from the ground into the vault. Now that you have your gravel base, you can add another layer of concrete blocks for the seat. The concrete blocks should be laid out so that they create an area that is wide enough for people to sit on, but not too deep so as to allow waste or urine to reach the ground through cracks or gaps in between blocks.
Next, build the vault itself. The walls should be built right up against each other until there is no gap visible between them; this will give you an airtight seal when finished! Make sure all corners are flush with one another so water does not collect in any cracks and start dripping down onto your toilet seat below (this could cause mold growth). Remember: don’t skimp on quality here—if it doesn’t look like a fortress when finished then maybe consider adding extra reinforcement around those doors before locking yourself inside at night!
Once finished building your vault toilet structure and sealed off from any environmental factors (i.e., dirt), remove all concrete blocks supporting its position in place—leaving only one end still touching ground level—and cover opening with plastic sheeting secured by duct tape around sides where needed (to prevent falling debris getting inside).
Remove the concrete blocks that hold the vault into position. You can now move the vault toilet to its final location, which is probably going to be near where you want it for your bathroom or shower. Before you permanently seal the vault toilet into place, make sure that the concrete blocks are removed and a drain line has been installed so that it can be easily emptied when it needs to be cleaned out (or changed).
How to empty the vault toilet: After using your vault toilet, you should clean it by flushing water through the flush tube. This will remove any waste and debris. Then, use a large bucket to scoop out any remaining water in the bowl of your vault toilet and dispose of it outside. .
Cleaning and maintenance: You should clean your vault toilet daily with warm water and baking soda or vinegar. This will prevent odors from developing inside of it. The materials used for construction are resistant to mold growth so there is no need for any special cleaning products other than soap and water when scrubbing down on occasion with an old brush if needed as long as you keep out all water sources from getting inside where they could cause damage over time causing cracks in walls etcetera so please be careful!
The Superstructure: The above the ground portion of your VIP is called the superstructure. You can get as fancy or as simple as you want here. Keep in mind the ease of cleaning; you want something easy to maintain but comfortable to use. Tile is a good choice. Wood is good if you protect it from the elements either by a protectant or a kitchen and bath and/or outdoor paint.
And that's how its done folks. Ill add a few diagrams and pictures!
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